Oaxaca

Ancestors have populated the region now called the state of Oaxaca for thousands of years. It was named Oaxaca, similar to the original Nahuatl name Huaxyacac meaning “place of the guaje trees,” by the Mexicas (Aztecs), and then inhabited by Zapotec and Mixtec who warred with each other. When the Spanish came, they imposed order and later renamed the city Oaxaca de Juarez, for Benito Juarez.

The lively historic stone streets are full of shops and galleries, art and street art.

The myth of the mix of indigenous and Spanish conceals colonial atrocities in the Americas
I decide

The grand Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in the Centro is a popular location for personal events and photographs. Fortunate to be there on a weekend, there were several quinceañera celebrations, for a young woman’s fifteenth birthday. They arrived by processions, and politely waited for their turn to photograph at the Cathedral. I was delighted to see Marisa appear, with her attendants and her lovely smile, as if floating on a puffy pink cloud.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
Quinceañera

At Mercado 20 de Noviembre, a fresh food market, I had a huge tostada with nopales, prickly pear cactus. Although not for this meal, I ate crunchy crushed grasshoppers in other dishes, but didn’t eat them whole.

Mural in the food market
Nopales
Grasshoppers

Oaxaca is a street art lover’s paradise! Located east of Oaxaca’s Centro, Jalatlaco was a charming and peaceful neighborhood with cobblestone streets, although I suspect it might be more lively at night, with many bars. I walked the streets, finding more and more colorful images on walls around every corner, such artistic creations, many celebrating indigenous themes and, of course, the ever present skeleton people.

Skeleton art is popular throughout Mexico. It is deeply ingrained in Oaxaca’s cultural celebration of Día de Muertos, Day of the Dead. Skeletons and skulls symbolize not just death, but the cycle of life and death. Traditional culture believes, or perhaps believed, that the afterlife is as important as life on earth, and is often depicted in a joyful and colorful manner, even drinking, dancing, and playing music. 

May water come down from the heavens and flow through your veins, Pachamama (Mother Earth)
Parking warning: Respect my entrance and I’ll respect your car

Mexico: Mexico CityTeotehuacánTlahuacPueblaCholulaOaxacaMonte AlbanCrossing OaxacaSumidero CanyonSan Cristobal, ChamulaAgua AzulPalenqueCampecheMérida, Uxmal, Chichen Itzá, Playa del Carmen

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Published by rkrontheroad

Writer, photographer, traveler

55 thoughts on “Oaxaca

  1. Oaxaca is a vibrant city. We saw quinceañeras in other parts of the country on our trip. They young women were very excited. When we were in Oaxaca there were dozens of tent cities around the cathedral. I don’t see them in your pictures. Each group seemed to have a different protest/cause. I doubt they’ve been solved, but looks they were moved. Maggie

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        1. Apparently this is a common occurrence in Oaxaca. I just read about it on NPR’s website and Reddit. Teachers hold a tent protest for a month or more in summer in the zocalo, and other groups by government buildings. Perhaps targeting summer tourism to be more visible. Some years there has been violent police attacks to break them up, but in recent years it has been peaceful. Our tour company checked for protests along their planned routes to avoid road blockages and other problems.

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          1. Yes, it starts with the teachers, but there were so many different causes that no one cause stood out. I’m all for a right to protest, but most people we just hanging out in their tents, the protests seemed to be an afterthought for some.

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  2. Oaxaca looks dazzling and bright, but doesn’t feel overwhelming, at least not from the pictures. I especially love the animals adorning the shopfronts, and that bench with the heads on it.
    Thanks for those translations. I understood some, but a few of them were beyond my ancient Spanish to translate.
    Do all families go all out like that for a quinceanera, or do the pictures show girls clearly from a higher socioeconomic class?

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    1. It would be interesting to spend a little more time there, beyond the touristy areas, to get a sense of the city, but it was certainly dazzling and fascinating. I believe most poorer families have parties, but not the lavish parades in public areas.

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  3. You have to admire the Mexicans for their use of bold colors, characters, and street art. Also for their unabashed celebration of the dead. These scenes make our city streets in America look utterly mundane. I love the giant animal heads hanging from the balconies.

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  4. Thanks for showing that! I had just watched the new Captain America movie and at one point they were (at least the movie said they were) in Oaxaca. I immediately was wondering about it since I’ve never heard of that city.

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    1. Oaxaca is a popular tourist city, well known for it’s Day of the Dead celebrations. Much of the Disney/Pixar movie Coco is patterned after their festivities. Check that one out. Thanks for your visit and comment!

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  5. Such beauty and lively colors everywhere! How can you keep from smiling walking down the street? Mickey and I make an internationally themed meal every Christmas. A few years ago we focused on Oaxacan cuisine. It was so delicious but didn’t include grasshoppers. 🙂 Thanks for sharing your adventures and photos.

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    1. Your yearly feast sounds like a creative and fun event. I was smiling and constantly taken by surprise while wandering that street art neighborhood! Thanks, Carol, for reading. I’m glad you enjoyed this post.

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  6. Oh this takes me back! I loved Oaxaca 😃 We saw some of the same street art pieces you captured, but you have many more that we missed. We did eat the grasshoppers whole however, flavoured with chilli and salt, and I really enjoyed them!

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        1. I know what you mean. I traveled with a Japanese friend in South Korea who was excited to see roasted insects she grew up eating (much smaller than the grasshoppers), so I had to have a taste to be polite.

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  7. What a vibrant place! I’ve not been to Oaxaca yet, but I do enjoy the plethora of Oaxacan food found here in Los Angeles that I’m keen on visiting this state of Mexico. I’ll have to return to Mexico soon to discover more. Thanks for sharing your time with us, Ruth!

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  8. I am quite struck by the colours of Oaxaca. It seems like everywhere you look, there is colour: the colourfully painted walls of buildings, the ‘flags’ hanging over streets, the street art you see adorning the walls in neighbourhoods outside the centre – they for sure take the colours to a whole different level. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

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  9. I need to catch up on your blog posts from Mexico and your European travels. My first trip to Mexico really left an impression on me and Oaxaca is top of the list for next time and towards Yucatan. The street art looks amazing and city lively.

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    1. I actually took a tour across Mexico to see the ruins, a trip I wouldn’t have felt comfortable doing as a woman alone, although I travel alone elsewhere often. Oaxaca was definitely a highlight. What a colorful, exciting city!

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