San Juan la Laguna

Lake Atitlán has been called the most beautiful lake in the world. Although I certainly haven’t seen them all, I have to agree that it’s up there at the top of my list. It’s surrounded by volcanoes and is large enough to be dotted with villages along its shores. My recent trip to Guatemala had to include a journey to the lake! I stayed in Santiago Atitlán several times and have visited a couple of smaller villages. This time I had my sights on San Juan la Laguna, known as an art community. We—my Japanese friend and I—considered staying a night there, but we had already booked a place for the week in Antigua so we worked out a day trip.

The shuttle from Antigua to Panajachel, the closest and most common jumping off place for Lake Atitlán, took about two and half hours. Paying for the crossing was much more organized than the last time I was there, when you had to bargain individually with each boat owner. We paid a set rate and received a slip to hand over on the boat, whichever one we ended up on. Then we talked to a few of the boat runners to see which one was likely to go out next. As usual, they wanted to wait a while until they had enough passengers to fill the boat, so we settled in until a few more people hopped on. Then we were off!

Panajachel boat dock

A cool breeze caressed us as we moved out into the deep blue, volcanoes keeping watch. Quiet, except for some muted conversations further back in the boat, waves lapping its sides.

We passed by villages nestled among the steep, forest-carpeted hills or hugging the shore, stopping at some to pick up or drop off.

Our little boat pulled in to the dock at our destination.

San Juan la Laguna dock

San Juan la Laguna was bursting with color! Umbrellas above in every shade, painted paths below. And interesting shops along the way.

Path from the dock
Bells and hats above on this street

And murals everywhere you look…

Birth of the world legend
Quetzal
This one is my favorite

Some memorable faces

A few more street scenes

Visit to a textile center

Weaving on a backstrap loom

We didn’t have much time to venture into the town proper, away from the touristy lakeshore. The schedule of the return boat across the lake was uncertain, and we would need to get to Panajachel to catch the last shuttle back to Antigua, so we gave ourselves ample time, knowing we’d probably end up waiting around for both the boat and the shuttle. But we did find time for a late lunch.

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Published by rkrontheroad

Writer, photographer, traveler

31 thoughts on “San Juan la Laguna”

  1. Spectacular framing on the lake and volcano shots. The deep blue of the water creates a wonderful contrast with the colorful paths and textiles of the village. The clarity of the street scenes and the sharp details of the weaving center are outstanding. Beautifully done! ⛰️🌊

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  2. I’ve not heard of San Juan la Laguna, but wow, what a colorful town! No drab corners whatsoever. Timing of ferries back can be tricky, and unfortunately can limit time on what to see and do. Nevertheless, you had a wonderful time!

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  3. San Juan, although touristy, was my favourite on Atitlan. If I knew you were going I would have suggested Santiago for its more local feel, but I know you didn’t have much time. Love the many street art pictures. Maggie

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  4. Umbrellas overhead and painted paths underfoot is such a generous way for a town to greet people stepping off a boat. I also appreciated the small logistical note about the set-rate crossing replacing the old bargain-with-every-boat-owner routine, because those quiet changes make a place so much easier to arrive in. And waiting for the boat to fill is its own travel ritual, one I’ve made peace with over the years.

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  5. Ruth, I was there about a year and a half ago and stayed at Santa Catharina for 3 nights. I love your photos and adventures. We were also in Antigua. Our journey included El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras and Belize.

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  6. This looks like a wonderful part of the world to explore, dear Ruth. The volcanic backdrop is very beautiful, and so are all those colourful towns and villages dotting the shoreline. I also love the vibrant murals – it looks like this entire village is turned into a canvas. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

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  7. Oh wow, what a fantastic collection of murals! I would be absolutely in my element here! We stayed in Pana and visited several villages on the east side of the lake as well as Santiago Atitlán, but didn’t venture to the west side. I suspect that back then San Juan La Laguna wasn’t known for its artiness as this would certainly have tempted us to visit 🙂

    As for the lake itself, while I too haven’t seen all the lakes in the world, I reckon Lake Atitlán could well be the most beautiful of those I have visited – I certainly can’t think of a more beautiful one!

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    1. San Juan was not as well known as an artist community when I lived there a couple of decades ago either. I went to Santiago many times and stayed there. I will always remember the early morning fog on the lake, and the local women washing their colorful huipiles along the shore.

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