Into the Mystic

A couple of hours drive west of Cape Cod, along the Atlantic coast, lies the town of Mystic, Connecticut, on the Mystic River. For those who haven’t lived near there or studied maritime history, it may be best known as the setting of a 1980s rom-com (romantic comedy) movie called Mystic Pizza or the theme of a Van Morrison song, Into the Mystic. The song, some listeners speculate, may not be about the Mystic River, although its lyrics evoke seafaring, but moving into the mystery of life or love.

Mystic Seaport Museum, a well-preserved marina with historic ships from the 1800s and early 1900s and the tales they tell, was my destination. The Museum is outdoors along the harbor, although there are some indoor exhibits. Interpretive signs inform the visitor about each vessel, its construction, timeframe, and its story. The Charles W. Morgan, the last of the wooden whaleships, was restored at Mystic. The shipyard did extensive repairs on the Mayflower II.

Mystic Seaport Museum
Repairs at the shipyard

The replica of the Amistad, a slave ship, used now for maritime training, was available to board and explore inside. In 1839, the Mende people. who were taken as slaves from Sierra Leone, revolted and took control of the ship. The vessel was captured and the Mende were tried; the courts found in favor of the Mende. The U.S. Supreme Court upheld that decision and they were freed. The 1997 movie, Amistad, tells this poignant story.

Amistad

I was moved by the story of the Gerda, a small boat with an important mission. In 1943, small boats made hundreds of rescue trips from Denmark to Sweden carrying Jewish refugees, in advance of a Nazi invasion planned for Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish high holy day. The refugees had been in hiding in Denmark, and had three days notice to leave.

Gerda III

The Asherah, named for a Phoenician goddess, is a research submersible. It reminded me of the Beatles’ Yellow Submarine. Built to hold two people, it was privately owned and used to explore shipwrecks until it was donated to the museum. My son had told me about robot submersibles used by NOAA to reach and explore ocean depths.

Asherah

A short walk from the waterline, clusters a restored and recreated 19th-century town with shops and craftspeople at work. It’s a stroll back in time.

Weaver’s workshop
Toy shop

Around town

Across the river on the western shore, the modern-day town of Mystic offers gift and clothing shops, and a few eateries. I would have liked to be there for the Wild Mushroom Festival. I didn’t eat at Mystic Pizza, although I saw the restaurant, still in business, since several people told me the pizza wasn’t great.

Historic house

The most interesting sight in town was the historic drawbridge; replaced several times, the current version dates back to 1922. A tourist boat came through as I watched. The gate that descended over the street stopping traffic rattled and moaned, but the movement of the drawbridge was silent and majestic.

View from the bridge

Recommended by my bed and breakfast owner, the S&P Oyster Restaurant and Bar was superb.

Sesame encrusted tuna

On this Cape Cod trip: Wandering Cape Cod againAround the Cape, Provincetown again, Into the Mystic, and Sailing on the Mystic.

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Published by rkrontheroad

Writer, photographer, traveler

34 thoughts on “Into the Mystic

  1. I love your photos, Ruth. The small village of Mystic looks like the perfect spot and a charming town to visit for a weekend getaway. I love how the place is full of history, and how you can grab an ice cream, stroll the Main Street and watch the drawbridge open up for the boats to sail on by. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

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  2. You had me reaching for the Van Morrison song the moment I saw your title Ruth. The harbour area oozes charm and charisma, I’m so glad they took the time to lay out all the information so everyone can get the most out of the history there. Do you consider it a bit lucky that you got to see the drawbridge raised for a passing boat? Or are they literally doing it every five minutes? Sesame encrusted tuna has just made my ‘need to try’ iPhone notes page. Cheers Ruth!

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    1. I couldn’t resist using the song title for this post, as it was on my mind throughout my visit there! The museum was so well done, it evoked the history of the place and the busy feel of the sea port. I was wandering downtown for a few hours before the boat came by and the drawbridge raised, so I don’t think it’s all that often. Glad I got to see it.

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    1. You’re welcome. It was planned – I was thinking of a doing a day trip to Mystic last year but decided it wouldn’t be long enough with the drive both ways. I didn’t want to be rushed so I stayed the night at an inn this time.

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  3. We visited Mystic Seaport a number of years ago, but the weather wasn’t the greatest. Either way, it was still a fabulous place to explore. Looks like you had much nicer weather than we did. Beautiful shots of the ships and recreated town. This makes me want to go back.

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  4. The history is so interesting, and I love it when boats are repurposed to be used as spaces for tourism, dining, or just exploring to learn their history. It’s great they don’t just end up in the scrapyard. Looks like you had perfect weather too 🙂

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  5. What a fabulous little town! Those beautiful tall ships, some fascinating history, and even a wild mushroom festival! I was particularly interested in your account of the Amistad as I hadn’t heard about it previously. Amazing, and wonderful, that the courts found in favour of the Mende people 🙂

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    1. The Wild Mushroom Festival was being advertising, but unfortunately I wasn’t there at the right time. Do look for the movie Amistad. It is a fascinating story, and of course, so rare that they were able to be freed.

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  6. My parents took our family to New England in the early 1970s so I only have vague memories of Mystic. I would love to go back, especially to see the Maritime Museum. I can’t believe the submersible is almost as old as I am; would’ve guessed much younger. And I assume Mystic has a high season which should be avoided? Do the shops/restaurants stay open year-round or is it much like Cape Cod with seasonal offerings? Your photos make it look like a must-see.

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