Provincetown again

During this September trip to Cape Cod, I stayed a night in Provincetown. It’s the liveliest, most interesting town on Cape Cod, at the farthest point, where the tip curves around as if beckoning you in. Recommended by a friend I had met traveling, I lodged at an inn at the far end of the town, out of the hubbub of downtown, a serene spot, a pretty place to walk. Intense blues.

I wandered carefully down the rocky outcrop that leads to the tip of the peninsula, but didn’t go all the way. The surface became slippery and narrow, difficult for more than one person to pass at a time. I was told the lighthouse was a much farther walk once you landed on the beach.

Signs informed about the Salt Marsh wetland habitat and its inhabitants. An excerpt:

β€œMany animals, including most of the fish and shellfish eaten in New England, spawn, grow and forage in this habitat sometime during their life cycles. In one year, ten tons of plant material can grow in a single acre of salt marsh.

When marsh grasses die, their leaves break off and settle in a thick spongy network of roots and sediments called peat. Microscopic bacteria feed on the decaying grasses and other decomposed organic matter collectively known as detritus. This process releases vital nutrients which nourish new plant growth. Marsh animals, including crabs, fish, and snails feed upon the detritus and bacteria. This intricate food web is linked to the sea through tides.”

There were many historic murals in the inn. Someone who was more familiar with the town could pick out those spots and see how they have changed. I imagine it was a quieter place in those times, although a thriving artist colony.

Walking into town, I embraced the warm vibe that is Provincetown. I’d love to stay in one of those houses.

Crammed with a diverse mix of shops, galleries, and eateries along vibrant Commercial Street, it’s both an artist haven and a magnet for the LGBTQ+ community. It does my heart good to see same sex couples holding hands, hugging, expressing their love openly. There’s an exciting energy in Provincetown, unlike the other cape villages, even in off season.

It’s a great place to sit on a bench and people-watch with plenty of street art to invite your eye. The Post Office CafΓ© advertised drag shows, but there wasn’t a performance the day I was there. The music pouring out was ear-shattering so I didn’t go in for lunch, but I did peek in to see the drag waitress, Anita Cocktail, in all her glory!

NIght and morning at the marsh

Lighthouse beacon
In the morning light

On this Cape Cod trip: Wandering Cape Cod again, Around the Cape, Provincetown again, Into the Mystic, and Sailing on the Mystic. (More in-town photos at my previous post Provincetown.)

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Published by rkrontheroad

Writer, photographer, traveler

32 thoughts on “Provincetown again

  1. So much of this article oozes serenity Ruth. Provincetown looks just lovely, from its charming houses and salt marsh wetland to all those bits of wonderful art that you always seem to find. I think we would also seek out this neighbourhood away from the hubbub, it strikes me as a great place to do some writing. A Lennon quote and some Lewis Carroll imagery always goes down well with me.

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  2. So peaceful! Provincetown is a place I’ve yet to visit, but I hope to head over some day, perhaps sooner than later. There’s a lot to explore on the East Coast of the US, and I appreciate you sharing this part of the country.

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  3. Thanks for the tour! I was here briefly once but it was so crowded and driving was stressful so we didn’t get to enjoy it. I wish we’d been able to see more. It looks like a great place!

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  4. We took a day trip to Provincetown from Boston a few years ago. It was during the middle of summer though and was pretty busy. Seems like you got to enjoy a quieter side of the city. I’m such a fan of the style of houses there. Beautiful captures.

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  5. We stayed in P-town back in the mid 1990s and it had a wonderful arty vibe and liberal attitude even back then – I bet even more so now. Thank you for taking me back to one of the places we most enjoyed on our New England road trip πŸ™‚

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    1. The center of town is busy and quirky, lots of shops and restaurants, which we visited last time I was there. Most people would not think of this place as peaceful… This is the quieter, and prettier, side of town.

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  6. The more I read and find out about Cape Cod and its little towns the more I realise how beautiful this part of the world is and Provincetown looks like a destination unto itself. As I flipped through your beautiful photos, I came to the conclusion that they embody an idea embedded in my subconscious mind about what a summer home and what summer vacation should look like – Β it’s about a feeling and the ocean air, the sea breezes, the dunes, and the sand. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day πŸ™‚ Aiva xx

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