Two Greats: Ocean Road, Barrier Reef

Posted byrkrontheroadPosted inAustralia/New Zealand, beach, Photography, TravelTags:, , ,

The Great Ocean Road follows the rugged coastline west of Melbourne skirting Australia’s southern shore. First stop on a day bus tour was Bell’s Beach, the famous surfer’s beach, relatively calm on this day in 2010. Fishermen were out early on Lorne’s Pier, sting rays circled in the water below. Local life paid no attention to the tourists wandering about watching them.

Bell’s Beach
 
Lorne’s Pier
 
 
 

Wild koalas slept in the trees along the Kennett River. We walked among tall hardwoods at the Maits Rainforest and through the Otway National Park to the sound of riotous colorful little parrots.

 
 
 
 
A fellow tourist
A stop for lunch

The natural formations along the weather-beaten coast were breathtaking, huge eroded creations sculptured by sea and wind. The famous 12 Apostles, sentinels along the incoming waves, were more impressive than I had even imagined. And there were the Loch Ard Gorge, the arch called London Bridge, shipwreck sites.

12 Apostles
 
 
 
Loch Art Gorge
 
London Bridge
 

When I sprained my ankle, my last day in Melbourne, the doctor told me to keep my foot up and iced for 48 hours. After carefully negotiating myself through a morning flight to Cairns, with wheelchair assistance, I settled in to read an Australian novel. The timing was good to hole up for a couple of days. I wasn’t able to explore the area as much as I would have liked, but knew I needed the rest and to keep off my foot, and I was there for the Great Barrier Reef. I rescheduled a snorkel trip for my third and last day in the area.

It was pouring in the rainforest coastal town. When it stopped for brief periods, I was lulled by the drip-drip from the palms and the dissonant chattering of a cacophony of birds, reminding me of my life in the tropics just a few years before. I tried to pick out individual voices of birdsong: high chatter, low whistles, raucous calls. Fortunately, the rain stopped just in time for my snorkel trip.

My hangout for 48 hours

From Cairns, it was a two-hour boat ride out to the Outer Barrier Reef. The colors of the sea changed as we approached the Reef. I regret not buying an underwater camera for the day, so I have few photos of that glorious undersea adventure. I’ll have to paint a picture with my words.

the crew
 
 
 

We snorkeled around the fishbowl area at Rigg’s Reef, a heavenly landscape masked from above by brilliant turquoise and deep blue. The diversity of plant and animal life on the coral reefs was truly astounding. Peaks and valleys crowded with fantastical beings in so many colors, some waving their fur-like appendages, others brain-like and intelligent looking, some pointing and curving like bones or trees or elk horns, and sheltering, caressing, or being nibbled at by the loveliest of sea creatures, some identifiable like clownfish nestling in anemone, long nosed yellow and blue tangs, giant clams. There were schools of little bright blue fish with yellow tails. Some larger fish looked like they had swum through an artist’s palette. I floated through a mass of tiny long slim silver fish, passing by like a river—I seemed to be showered with sparkling confetti. It’s all densely packed together growing on the walls of silent underwater hills, spread out over miles. I was swimming in Nemo’s world. My foot felt much better after some therapeutic exercise too!

It makes you wonder (the Reef), as I often think when seeing a strong river crashing over rocks endlessly, or listen to birdsong in an otherwise silent forest, or other natural phenomenon, how can all this vigorous and flamboyant life be going on all the time? And most people will never see it, or even realize that it exists… How can we humans think we’re the only ones that matter in the world?

After about two weeks in Australia, I hopped a flight to New Zealand. (Check back for NZ posts.)

Australia: Sydney, Melbourne, St Kilda, Great Ocean Road, Cairns

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Published by rkrontheroad

Writer, photographer, traveler

43 thoughts on “Two Greats: Ocean Road, Barrier Reef”

  1. Pingback: Sydney – Ruth Rosenfeld
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  3. Two greats indeed, Ruth and both equally worthy of visitors’ time. I love the Great Ocean Road and its frequently changing and dramatic landscapes and views as well as the diverse underwater haven that is the Great Barrier Reef. Although I’m not much of a swimmer or snorkeler, I’d say it would be fun to spend some time beneath the surface to take in mesmerising natural wonder. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day. Aiva 🙂 xx

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  9. Such a lovely post Ruth, that brought back so many wonderful memories. Don and I did a road trip from Canberra to the Great Ocean Road a few years back and went to all the places you mention. And our GBR excursion to the outer reef was the same year as you. Extraordinary! A huge highlight for me.

    Alison

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  10. Your post and photos make me nostalgic of my first time in Australia. A Great Ocean Road trip to the 12 Apostles was highly recommended and was definitely worth it, and a weekend in Cairns to snorkel in the Great Barrier Reef was a dream come true.

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  12. That trip along the Great Ocean Road looks fantastic, with so much variety – not just the coastal views which I would expect but also that lush rainforest and the koalas! And your beautiful description of the Great Barrier Reef reminded me of my own visit there, when I too omitted to take an underwater camera 🙂

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    1. Thanks, Sarah! The Australian coast is quite an amazing place. I’m glad to have written that snorkeling description at the time. I had enough on my mind, tending to my hurt ankle, than to be taking photos.

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  17. “Exotic” comes to mind here, whether a wild koala, the 12 Apostles, or the seascape you described in such detail. Makes the environment of the continental U.S. seem boring by comparison!

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    1. I didn’t see any people out there, or any signs warning against it. I just Googled it and it said “dangerous and prohibited.” Apparently there are rangers patrolling. I thought they were just there for information.

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  20. Majestic, from the sleeping koala to the ferns and the Twelve Apostles. Beautiful photos, Ruth. I’m glad that you managed not to miss the snorkelling trip despite your sprained ankle. The experience sounds magical and reminds me of my own snorkelling experience in Malaysia.

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