Melbourne has a more open and casual feel than Sydney, a harmonious blend of Victorian buildings and attractive modern architecture, topped with a crisp blue sky during my visit in 2010. I rode the train to Southern Cross Station, an open metallic structure with a flowing wave of a roof, then hopped on the free shuttle, a classic tram, to Flinders Street Station, a stately orange block-long Victorian masterpiece with clock tower. This was the one place on my journey where I would have warm reunions with friends: two women I taught with, one in Prague, and one in Japan.
In the southern suburb of St Kilda (pronounced sin kilda, like its namesake in Scotland), I got off the tram at Luna Park, where a huge face formed the entrance to an amusement park. I looked around to find an endless expanse of beach and blue sky. I couldn’t have chosen a more beautiful spot if I had scoured the guidebooks. From my friend’s eleventh floor apartment with two furry cats, you could see blazing orange sunrises, hear birdsong and a rhythmic surf floating up from below. A balloon drifted effortlessly by the window while we sipped morning coffee. A modern boardwalk snaked along the waterfront with little boats on one end, and a bay full of kiteboarders on the other, the Melbourne skyline as backdrop. Aussies are an outdoor, athletic people, out running, cycling, surfing, a group training for a triathlon. A night market livened up the park.
I wandered the city of Melbourne. At the State Library, an interesting exhibit of paintings of old Victoria (state), and a vaulted dome over green lamped tables surrounded by shelves of antiquated volumes. I loved Ian Potter Museum’s Aboriginal art with Dreaming stories and videos of artists at work. There are many indigenous tribes, 38 different languages in Victoria alone. The Immigration Museum sensitively told stories of Australia’s diverse immigrant groups, mostly from Europe and Asia, featuring individual voices telling touching stories. And I met the imposing Phar Lap himself, in taxidermy, dominating one room in the Melbourne Museum. I was fascinated by a wonderfully recreated slice of Little Lon, a recently excavated poor neighborhood that had been paved over in the 1950s with a car park and was rediscovered recently, that displayed parts of actual houses, rooms, and streets.
The three of us rendezvoused at a rooftop restaurant and downstairs jazz bar in Melbourne. My two teacher friends hadn’t met before. It struck me how different they were in personality. Susan, outgoing and laughing, had been an actress, a neighbor on an Australian sitcom, before her teaching stint in Japan. Marg, who I was staying with, more serious and reserved, with an advanced CERT language certification, had been training English teachers in Prague. It was a fun evening for me to connect with them both. At another dinner, Marg and I caught up with Jeannie, who also taught with us in Prague.
A beach day was in order, so good for the soul! Walked the boardwalk and bike trail along the water’s edge in the morning. My friend drove to eastern towns to tour Rippon Lea, a Victorian mansion preserved in the genre of its last residents in the 1940s, and a trendy beach with little brightly painted wooden cabanas lined up in colors like a box of crayons.
From Melbourne, I took a day trip along the Great Ocean Road, one of the destinations on my must-see list. (Check back for next post.)
As a frequent traveler, I have been exceedingly lucky. But my last day in Melbourne, I stepped off an unexpected curb around a tram island while crossing the street, and went down, turning my ankle. My friend took me to the hospital, where, as I hobbled in the door, the doctor called out “It’s not broken if you can do that!” He refused to x-ray my foot since he felt it unnecessary, unlike in the U.S. where it would be a standard practice. He confirmed a sprained ankle and advised me to keep my foot up and iced for 48 hours. I pondered what changes I would need to make to my trip plan.
More Australia to come: Sydney, Melbourne, St Kilda, Great Ocean Road, Cairns
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Ruth Rosenfeld 
We loved our visit to Melbourne, St Kilda and the 12 Apostles. It is a lot more relaxed than Sydney and a lot easier to navigate. Thanks for the memories Ruth. Happy New Year. Allan
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Most people don’t get to St Kilda, surprised you did! I only found it because my friend lived there. Glad to kindle fond memories. Ocean Road to come (Apostles). Hope this is a good new year for you, Allan.
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On our first night in Melbourne in 2012, we took the Colonial Dining Tram tour and it went out to St Kilda and back. Once we saw the coast, we were determined to get back for a closer look. We also took the train ride out to Williamstown.
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I’ve never been to Melbourne, but my best friend lives there. And somehow, over the years and through all the photos and stories, I’ve received from her, I’ve grown to love the city, its many landmarks as well as the idea of one day stepping my foot on it. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day. Aiva xx
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Maybe you might think about visiting your friend some time! It’s a lovely area.
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Hi Ruth. You have been to so many countries and continents. Your zest for adventure is outstanding.
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When you live on another continent, it’s easier to travel to nearby places, rather than flying from North America. Although Australia is not really close to anyplace I’ve lived, I had always wanted to go there.
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A wonderful walk around the area – I particularly love the train station and the state library. It looks like glorious weather as well 🙂
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The weather was perfect, and a good place to escape winter in the northern hemisphere. There are some beautiful traditional buildings there, as well as unusual modern architecture.
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We haven’t been to Australia at all yet, but it’s coming up the list quite quickly just now. Hope the ankle didn’t go on to spoil things…
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You’ve been to so many more remote places that many never get to! This is worth the trip. I had to switch gears for the next few stops – less hiking, more water activities, but it all worked out.
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I especially Love the photos of the architecture.
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Thanks, the traditional and the modern made an interesting blend.
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I didn’t make it to Melbourne when I was in Australia years ago, but Richard (photographer/husband) lived there for 5 years before we met. Your pictures really bring th city to life. And the weather looks amazing. Looking forward to seeing the Gteat Ocean Road! Maggie
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Thank you, Maggie! Melbourne was a welcoming city, and not just because I knew people there. I did luck out with the weather, but I think it’s typical of Aussie summer.
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Sorry about the sprained ankle! Accidents do happen on trips, but hopefully, it wasn’t a terrible fall. Melbourne sounds more lax than Sydney, and there appears to be a lot of great things to do and see there! Should I ever make it to Australia, I’ll definitely need to visit Melbourne!
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I recommend Melbourne, it has a friendly vibe and there’s lots to do there. I had to make some changes in my next stops because of the ankle, less hiking and more water activities. It all worked out well after all.
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I love the beach photos.
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Thank you!
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Oh no! It was all going so well until the very end! I wish Melbourne could have made our itinerary, but given that we’ll be there in Australia’s winter, we focused on less southerly locations. I presume we’ll get there on our NEXT trip to Oz because it looks like an interesting city. I love the cool buildings and artsy facades. And you got to stay with two cats, which elevates any trip to the next level. 😉
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But this isn’t the very end – there are a couple more cool places to come. Ayers Rock wasn’t on my list, so you will be exploring well beyond the coast. Like so many travel destinations, it’s hard to see everything. The cats were sweet. ☺
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You paint a wonderful picture of this city in both words and photos! I’ve always thought I would like Melbourne and I think so even more after reading this post. The art everywhere looks great and I love the mix of old and new architecture. A shame though about your injury. I know just how you must have felt, based on my own similar mishaps: a mix of pain, frustration and embarrassment?
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Thank you, Sarah. That’s an apt description of how I felt when it happened. But I was just coming up on halfway through a fabulous trip and wasn’t going to let that stop me!
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Lovely to see some recent photos of Melbourne. I was born there but the family moved to Canberra when I was 11. I was back there briefly in 1975 and not since. I have many memories though of my childhood there.
Just FYI that shuttle is a tram not a cable car, and Victoria is a state not a province.
You’ve given me a wonderful sense of the city as it is now.
Alison
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Thanks for the corrections. This was the city in 2010, but much closer to now than when you were there last. It’s one of the few cities I’ve visited that I felt was very livable.
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How fun to have a reunion with two of your friends. Lovely captures of the city and beach. Sounds like you got the best of both worlds.
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Thank you! It was a city I could see living in. And so close to the beach, a perfect spot.
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The city’s culture is boldly reflected in its art and architecture. I think more American cities can take a lesson from that. I love the tall bronze figures on the sidewalk in front of the shops, and the majestic central space of the library. If I’m not mistaken, it’s pronounced “Mel-buhn” by the locals instead of how it’s spelled, correct? Kind of like “Briz-buhn”.
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I kind of heard it as Melb’n but your spelling is probably right on track. It seemed a very livable city.
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Melbourne, judging by your photos and writing, would be an amazing city to visit and live in for a while. Art… architecture… beaches… and I would imagine a fabulous food scene. It’s always fun to meet old teaching friends from various countries. It’s sad to read about your injury, but I’m relieved to already know that the mishap did not stop you from enjoying the rest of your trip.
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I would enjoy living in Melbourne, of all the cities I’ve visited. It’s friendly, attractive, comfortable, and has so much to offer.
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