On a day trip to Essaouira (pronounced ‘S-where-a), on the Atlantic coast, we followed a two-lane road over dry land, for the 2-1/2 hour trip from Marrakech to the sea. It’s not called desert, according to Fouad, my driver, recommended by the riad where I stayed, because the southeastern border of the country is in the Sahara Desert. We passed camels and many a donkey walking slowly along the road, each carried a man perched sideways on it with feet bouncing gently, full bags on either side of the animal.
An attractive young woman led me around a women’s cooperative where argan oil is processed into cosmetics and body oils. Divorced or widowed women could find work there. She showed me the fruit, both ripe and dry, and the seed, which is called almond but not the kind we eat, and I saw how the women worked.
Fishermen brought in their nets and cleaned fish along the old ramparts while seagulls hung suspended in midair overhead, yelling, raucous, waiting for their share, white wings waving. Little blue boats were jammed in so tightly at the port that it was difficult to imagine a fisherman extracting his own and getting it out to the open water, or perhaps you could take any that were seaward.
Men repaired or painted boats, some a bold yellow.
Essaouira’s souks hawked boxes of thuya, a burled wood which polishes to a warm yellow brown, carpets, pottery, and other local crafts. Royal blue doors appeared on white buildings, but there was not the clean sharp white and blue contrast of the Greek islands—these were faded, ageing, peeling.
There was time for a walk along the beach and a stop at the seafood stalls before I had arranged to meet my driver for the return trip.
More to come. Morocco series: Marrakech, Essaouira, Tangier, Chefchaoen
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Ruth Rosenfeld 
These photos are a book-in-the-making!
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Thank you!!
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Another familiar corner of Morocco to enjoy through your eyes, Ruth. Those distinctive blue boats are just lovely and veritable icons of Essaouira. I have a similar shot of the birds going crazy around the port and its surrounding squares, how delightfully Hitchcockian. Wonderful photography throughout as ever, particularly of the boats.
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Thanks, Leighton! I’m sure you have similar shots of the birds and boats, so picturesque. I loved wandering that town. Somehow the gulls don’t looks as ominous as the black birds in that movie.
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My favourite place in Morocco!
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Mine as well! Thanks for your visit.
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I love all the blue boats – stunning!
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They were just entrancing!
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These photos are amazing, Ruth!
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Thank you, my friend!
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I did get the chance to go to Essaouira when I was in Morocco in 2017, i.e. I didn’t have the time. But it’s very fascinating to go from the inland, dry desert area to the sea, as it offers a completely different perspective on the country. Such a colorful city, and the argan oil at the women’s cooperative is a great way for women from all walks of life to work together and produce some great, local products!
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*didn’t get the chance, whoops!
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It’s hard to make those choices when we travel, isn’t it? There are so many interesting places in the world. It was moving to see the women working together at the argan coop.
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Morocco looks like a great place to visit. I love the colors and the architecture in your photos. Looking at the seagulls hovering in midair, it is hard to believe that for thousands of years brilliant people observed this without getting a clue about flight.
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What an interesting observation! It takes a scientific mind to construct the mechanics of flight.
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Hey there, Ruth. Are those hand drums on the rock wall?
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Yes, they are drums. I was tempted to buy one because they looked so cool (but didn’t).
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I’d say that Morocco is a photographer’s paradise.
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It was truly a feast for the eyes. The human-made colors of boats and carpets may be in response to the monochromatic desert landscape.
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That makes sense.
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Ah, memories of our day trip to Essaouira, but also lots of fresh things for me to appreciate. I was on crutches after breaking my foot two days before, so I wasn’t able to explore much 😦 I love your photos of the boats and the gulls wheeling overhead!
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Oh no, that must have been a damper on your usual exploring! Glad to spark some good memories.
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It was indeed! We went back to Marrakesh a few years later so I could see it properly but we never (yet) made it back to Essaouira
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So many great pictures here: the blue boats, the seagulls in flight, and others.
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Thanks so much! Such a picturesque town. It was an enchanting visit.
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A beautiful post for a beautiful place.
Your photos are stunning 💙💙💙
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Thanks so much, Luisa! I’m glad you enjoyed this post. 😊
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You’re more than welcome, Ruth 🤗
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On our trips to Morocco, we didn’t visit Essouria but your words and pictures conjure up great memories of one of our favourite destinations. Some of the more remote places we visited gave us memories which will live with us for ever – and this post just recharges those memories.
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Glad this sparked some good memories for you! Where was that favorite destination?
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Well I meant Morocco in general, but as well as Marrakech we have great memories of a small town called Skoura on the edge of the desert and the Dades Gorge, and of Tafraout, a fairly remote mountain destination. Loved it all.
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Interesting… I’ll check them out!
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Great post and such wonderful photos from my beloved Essaouira. A few years ago, we had a chance to spend five days exploring its quiet souks and wonderful coast. As we continued our trip toward Marrakech, it was a perfect introduction to Morocco and its culture and the days spent in the coastal city prepared us for the noisy, colourful bustle that encapsulates Morocco’s vibrant soul. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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How wonderful to have five days in this town and area. Thank you, Aiva!
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Thanks for the pronunciation tip on your subject! What a contrast, from boats to camels (and I’ve always wanted to ride a camel). Also noticed the universal shape/color of the stop sign, if not the language itself.
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How could you possibly figure out how to say the name without a hint?! Camel ride next time.
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Quite lovely Ruth. Your photos are wonderful and make me want to go there. And thank you so much for the pronunciation!
Alison
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I’m a bit surprised you haven’t been, with all your travels! Glad you enjoyed this post. Who would know how to pronounce it without hearing it?
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I’ve been to Morocco ( many many years ago) but not to Essaouira. Nor to Chefchaouen, another town there I’d like to see. One day . . . .
Alison
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Ah, they are so many interesting places in world. And you have been to so many (that I have not)!
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So much world, so little time. Sigh. 😁
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Wow it’s just beautiful. I love all the little blue boats, and then the clear skies full of seagulls. You’ve made me want to visit 🙂
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I loved this place, so unusual and beautiful! Perhaps I am helping.their economy, based in part by tourism.
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What a wonderful post and wonderful photography. I especially liked all the little blue boats and the pictures of the seagulls. How fun to also see a camel.
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Thanks so much. It was a feast for the eyes! Stay tuned for the camel ride in the next post. 😊
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Oh … all those little blue boats. It must be “last in, first out” I think 😊. Your photos of the seagulls, reminded me slightly of that movie “The Birds” from Alfred Hitchcock … I think that must have been the first and last “scary” movie I saw!
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I’m not one for scary movies either. But seagulls are fine, they are following the fish smell that permeated that area. I wondered that about the boats, as well, how could you extract yours? 😊
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Great post, Ruth. This makes me want to go to Morocco.
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Thanks for catching up with some of my posts. I appreciate your reading.
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