An hour and a half bus ride, about 30 miles (40km) southeast from Lisbon, lies the much smaller city of Setúbal. An artist friend from Colorado moved there recently to join an expat artist community. I was pleased to see she seems to be settling in nicely, has made friends, and is awaiting her container of art supplies to arrive to fill her home studio.
I could see the attraction of this area. The streets were a mix of old town ambiance, little shops and galleries, and great seafood restaurants. Some historic structures topped scenic hillsides. And not only are things much cheaper in Portugal, there’s a warmer, slower lifestyle in Setúbal, and outdoor art is celebrated there.
From the old…






To the modern…















We walked the boardwalk along the beach, a short walk from the city center, on the bay at the mouth of the Sado River. Beachgoers were out sunning or lounging under their colorful umbrellas, tethered blue and white boats bobbed. And more sculpture!



Click the arrows to see the dolphins leap


Around town






The Sado River estuary is home to an amazingly wide variety of birds. On the day we came to the Sado Estuary Natural Reserve, or Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado, flamingos were gathering along its shorelines and tiny islands. The father and son team of Barco Mirasado boated slowly around the estuary on a calm day, the craft barely swaying in the bay tides. They came as close as they felt comfortable for us to view the graceful birds as they gingerly walked and stretched their elegant wings to fly en masse. Their light-colored feathers shone in the sun between the deep blue of the sky and sea, flashing pink and black on wing. It’s a bird lover’s paradise. Our crew spotted many other species, egrets, heron, storks, and more.










Click the arrows for bird views

A walk through the Mercado before I left: local produce, cheese, sardines and tinned fish, butchers, and fishmongers.






And if I hadn’t already gotten the message, my Uber driver to the airport was another American transplant who had been in Setúbal for decades, extolling its virtues.
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beautiful. Must go one day
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Thanks, I hope you get there.
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I detect a longing to return….maybe permanently? Love all the art💕I have a kid’s book to recommend: Cat Nap by Lies, it’s up for Caldecott.
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Thanks for reading and your comment! Not for me to move abroad at this time in my life, although I did so earlier for eight years. I’ll check out Cat Nap.
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Never heard of Setúbal, but what a beautiful and quaint little place! Definitely sculptures galore at each turn in town. I can see why Americans flock to this place, as it’s a lovely blend of old and new, as well as to express oneself artistically. Thanks for sharing, Ruth!
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I hadn’t heard of it either, but it was a lovely find and not at all touristy. Thanks for reading, Rebecca!
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We spent a long weekend travelling between Setubal, Sesimbra and Arrabida Park. It is a lovely, unexplored part of Portugal. I can see the allure for expats. Maggie
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It’s a lovely area and off the tourist track, another appeal. Thanks for visiting, Maggie.
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Visually stunning, Ruth, and you captured so many amazing angles.
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Thank you, my friend!
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Thank you for the lovely tour!
My husband and I were just talking about Portugal this evening, there is still so much to explore over there, and a much warmer weather🥰
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I have visited different areas of Portugal a few times. This one was really off the tourist route, which was refreshing. Thank you, Christie!
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Beautiful set of pictures to showcase this delightful city. I can see why your friend moved there. How lovely that you were able to visit.
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Thank you! It was an opportunity to visit an enjoyable, less touristy part of Portugal.
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This looks like a lovely city with a cool arty vibe – I have a feeling your friend will settle in well to that environment. Portugal does ‘old’ so picturesquely, I always think!
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I agree! Glad you related to this, having visited the country.
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I’ve been to Portugal several times, yes, but never to Setúbal!
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I had been in the country a couple of times, visiting different places each time too. I had never heard of this town until my friend moved there. A sweet discovery.
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Having lived in Spain for 3 years, one would think that I would have made time to visit Portugal. But alas I didn’t. Thanks for sharing your wonderful photos and experiences. I can visit it through you.
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Is this Carol? It is surprising you didn’t venture west to Portugal. Thanks for reading and your kind comment.
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This is such a wonderful post about one of my favourite places in Portugal, dear Ruth. By now, I’ve been to Setúbal a good few times as I very much love its blend of history, culture, beautiful beaches, and delicious food, all without the crowds of Lisbon. Last time I was there, I took a ferry across the bay to the Troia peninsula to see the Roman Ruins of a salt factory. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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I’m delighted to know you have frequented this town and enjoyed it, Aiva! I’ve just found out that a Canadian friend of my brother has been there recently on the same bird boat excursion. He and his wife are “birders”. 😊
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Lovely place with the art and birds.
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Thanks for your visit, Mrs W.
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Thank you for the beautiful photographs of a city I’ve never heard of until now.
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You’re welcome. I hadn’t heard of it either until my friend moved there.
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Great pictures, Ruth. I love the packaging on the tinned fish in Portugal. They are works of art and seem so vintage.
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Thanks so much! I assumed they were sardines, but after translating the sign, I see they are cod. Regardless, I was attracted to the artwork and this practice is certainly old enough to be considered vintage.
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What a lovely place, and so off the main track – I love all the art work and sculptures, I can see why your friend chose to move there.
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It was a nice find, even for just a quick getaway. Although with all the Americans, it did have a bit of a touristy feel.
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What a colourful city- no wonder why is has attracted artists there. I love the statues in the market and the canned fish designs.
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It was a peaceful place and inspiring to the creative souls that have found it. Thanks for your comment!
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