The drive down the east coast of New Zealand’s South Island was as beautiful as I had hoped. It reminded me of the drive along the coast of Ireland, a trip I took, oddly enough, with the friend I had just visited in Melbourne the week before, green and beautiful. In Kaikoura, I was greeted by a spectacular sunset over the curved beach, and feasted on crayfish, plump green mussels, and local wines.
Just off the coast near Kaikoura, the sea floor drops away into a deep canyon where mammals that usually stay out in the open sea come closer to land. The sperm whale blows for about five minutes, then arches his back and submerges, waving his graceful fan-like tail in the air, dripping, as if to say farewell, thanks for visiting me, move along now.
Two small boats cruised around looking for whale plumes, then converged at a safe distance to observe without disturbing the wildlife. They zeroed in when one surfaced, and we hovered behind him to watch. Like the jeeps on a South African safari I had been on years ago, searching for wildlife at dawn and dusk, radioing and converging at a safe distance, we lingered close enough to observe without notice. We had three sightings, although I believe the same whale came up again an hour later for that third unintentional show. Dolphins leaped along our bow on the way back, crisscrossing under the ship.
The next day the seas were calm, and literally hundreds of dusky dolphins were out! Like the whales, the dolphins were not fed or enticed in any way; we were informed that this was an exceptional find. I slithered into a tight, heavy wetsuit, insulated for the colder waters of the southern Pacific. I felt like a dolphin, sleek and slippery.
Playful, curious dolphins swam in circles around me, making eye contact, singly or in twos or threes, with faces that seemed to smile; I tried to mimic their behavior as they circled; then they leaped and moved on, diving deeper. We made three swim stops, then hung out on the deck taking photos, plied with ginger snaps and hot chocolate. It was a glorious day and a treasured experience to communicate in some small way with these gentle beings.
In town
New Zealand
North Island: Auckland, Rotorua, Hobbiton, Wellington
South Island: Abel Tasman National Park, Kaikoura, Christchurch, Queenstown, Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, Dunedin, Otago, Oamaru, Moeraki
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Ruth Rosenfeld 
Such beautiful photos, Ruth, especially the ones with dolphins jumping out of the water. There are so many incredible animals and fish in the sea that it can be hard to keep track of them all. Still, dolphins have always stood out as being extra special. Maybe it’s the cute, high-pitched noises they make. Maybe it’s the way they leap out of the water. Or maybe it’s that they always seem to be smiling, no matter what. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Dolphins seem social as well, not just with their own kind, but they are curious and friendly with humans. And believed to be quite intelligent. Thanks for your comment, Aiva.
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🥰🥰🥰
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Oh, what a lush and beautiful place. Swimming with dolphins is an experience I’d certainly like to have one of these years. They are such endearing and playful creatures. What’s the story behind the shoes tied to the fence? Such a curious sight.
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The dolphin swim was such a joyful experience. They were so inquisitive and friendly. I don’t know why the shoes were tied to the fence! There was no explanation, and no locals around to ask.
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Your pictures are amazing as always! How special to catch the wildlife in their natural setting. And you looked maaaavelous!
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Thanks so much, Carol!
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Wow, such gorgeous wildlife! Kaikoura looks so blue and full of aquatic life, and I’m glad you got to see a lot of dusky dolphins and whales on your day out!
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This was over two days, one outing each day. When planning this trip, I hadn’t decided which activity to do, but once I hurt my ankle, although it was healing, I decided to do them both instead of spending a day walking around. No regrets!
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Wow, that whale’s tail shot is wonderful! And how amazing to swim with the dolphins – I would love to do that 😀 I also like the simplicity of your last shot.
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Thank you, Sarah! It was an amazing experience. The beach was an unusual mix of rock and little pieces of driftwood, which made an interesting pattern.
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How absolutely beautiful – your photos of the dolphins playing are truly spectacular. What a special experience 🙂 I am wondering what the story of all the trainers (sneakers) on the fence is!
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Thank you, Han! I wondered too about that fence – there was no explanation and no one around to ask.
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The second-to-last photo with the solitary figure at the shore is mesmerizing. I love how the water glitters and the shoreline curves away to the right as if creating a bay. Spectacular.
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Thanks so much for your kind words, Dave! I was taken by the sparkle along the water line. It was a beautiful spot.
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Love your shots of the leaping dolphins, especially the one where “he” is right out of the water.
I think one reason that they are such fun to watch is that they just seem to do these things for fun.
Playful rather than out of need.
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Thank you! They are playful, like otters, and it was such fun to play with them.
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Your pictures are beautiful. What a wonderful experience to swim with the dolphins!
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Thank you! It was an exceptional chance to commune with another species. And they were so fun and friendly.
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