My first stop heading north from Santa Fe was at Pojoaque Pueblo, a Native American nation with its own government. At the pueblo, Poeh Cultural Center, a complex of traditional adobe buildings, has an exhibit portraying Tewa people throughout thousands of years of history and culture. And there was a wonderful new exhibit that touched my heart.
In the spirit of recent efforts to return art works and important artifacts to their place of origin, the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian in Washington DC invited indigenous artists from pueblos in the area to choose one hundred pots from their collection to return after over one hundred years. The People’s Pottery exhibit, called Di Wae Powa in Tewa, which means “They Came Back,” displays the pots in pyramid-shelved, glass enclosed cases.
In a video, native potters held the pots and talked about reconnecting with their ancestors through the work of their hands that formed and painted the pottery. These artists were likely descendants of the creators; the skills and techniques were usually passed down through the family. They described the clay as living, created from the earth of the Pueblo land. Before digging up the clay, Pueblo people ask the earth for permission. “They were lonely,” explained one artist, and now they are “happy to come back home.”
When I first came out west in the 70s, I bought this treasured bowl from an artist sitting on a blanket at the Santa Fe Plaza. She signed it Marie Pacheco, Santa Clara Pueblo.
The High Road to Taos heads northeast from Pojoaque. I didn’t go all the way to Taos this trip, but drove through a few of the small towns, then looped back to the main road (Hwy 285).
Nambé Pueblo is known for Nambé Lake and Falls. I have been a bit of wimp hiking these days, especially since I turned an ankle recently that still bothers me when I stress it. The view of the falls from the lower trail requires wading through the lake at one point, and part way along the upper trail I decided it best not to go through a narrow stretch of small rocks, sliding as I stepped. So I didn’t make it to the dramatic falls, but it was a pretty trail and a perfect place to get some exercise to break up the drive.
Red rock sandstone shapes appeared along the road, snow peaks in the distance.
El Santuario de Chimayó, in the village of Chimayó, is a large complex designated a National Historic Landmark. Thousands of pilgrims are said to travel to the shrine during Easter week.
The view was spectacular from Truchas, my last stop along the High Road to Taos. This sleepy village was the town where the movie The Milagro Beanfield War was filmed. The church is now an art gallery, not open that day.
I often purchase books as part of my further education while traveling, or reread novels that evoke the place I’m visiting. Here are two classics that I loved. In the first, villagers protest a planned development, inspired by a farmer who waters his beans after the town residents are told they could not use the water. I read the book years before the movie came out; the film is excellent as well. The second is a mystical, magical coming of age story in a rural New Mexican village.
More New Mexico wanderings to come.
Santa Fe road trip: Leadville, Santa Fe landmarks, Walking Santa Fe, Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico towns, Ghost Ranch, Antonito
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Ruth Rosenfeld 
The post is wonderful and the photos are gorgeous, as usual ❤️
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Thanks so much, Luisa! ❤
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You’re most welcome ❣️
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It was interesting to read about these far away places and we enjoyed your pictures.
Thank you so much Ruth for sharing all this, even if we will never visit these places.
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Thanks for coming along, Rudi. I appreciate your visits,
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So love the story of the returning artefacts, especially as the people have been praying and that their prayers have been answered. I’m not a religious person but the story is heartwarming. As we discovered on our recent trip, there are so many micro versions of religious beliefs in Mexico, where tribal traditions meet Catholic beliefs. It’s all both fascinating and complex.
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In Guatemala, where I lived for a while, it’s similar. An interesting blend of Mayan beliefs and rituals mixed with Catholic saints. Thanks for your thoughts.
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I love this simple style of architecture and the magnificent carved doors. It all looks neat as a pin. Can’t blame you for not wanting another turned ankle Ruth. Hope all is well with you. Allan
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It’s always interesting what different people zero in on. The Chimayo complex is rich in photo opportunities. Those doors spoke to me. Thanks for your comment, Allan.
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Good initiative by the Smithsonian. There are a lot of artifacts that are waiting to go home. Lovely photos. I love the picture with the red and purple flowers against the wall
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Thank you. Glad that quiet wall photo spoke to you. It was a moment. The return of the pots is a special story that I was happy to share. I hope there will be more of that action around the world.
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The native culture of that region is fascinating. I’ve long been attracted to that area.
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It does have a compelling appeal – the history, earthy architecture, southwestern landscape, and indigenous culture.
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Hi. I enjoyed reading this essay. I’ve been to a couple of the places you mention, and only because my brother and sister-in-law moved to NM a few years ago. Otherwise I’d never have visited the state.
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Sometimes we need a reason to go to a place. Glad you have that connection. Thank you, Neil.
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Fantastic to see some of the places we didn’t stop at on the High Road to Taos, as well as revisit through you a couple that we did (Chimayó and Truchas). I loved hearing about the People’s Pottery exhibit – so glad to know that some objects at least are being returned to their rightful homes. And thanks for the book recommendations – Bless me Ultima in particular sounds like one I would enjoy, I’ll check it out
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Fun that you’ve driven this road! It was very moving for me to see that exhibit and learn the story of their return. Enjoy Ultima, that one has been made into a movie too, but read the book first.
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If you’re curious (and only IF!), I wrote a bit about it here: https://www.toonsarah-travels.blog/following-the-high-road-to-taos/
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I will check it out!
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Thank you for doing so 🙂
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As always, your photos and stories are such an inspiration. It warms my heart to know the natives have some of their ancestral pottery back where it belongs. And I’m sorry about your ankle. I hope your recovery continues – it can take a while! Hugs my friend.
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My thanks and hugs to you, Carol, for following along. Glad you were moved by the pottery story, as I was.
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Finally museums like Smithsonian are returning art to their homes. Nice story about how the Pueblo responded. I also love the Pueblo buildings and how they blend in to the environment. Maggie
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Thanks, Maggie. It would be interesting to know what else the Smithsonian is returning elsewhere in the world. I appreciate your comment.
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It definitely looks like a lovely hiking trail … always is when it’s between high trees and a lake! And then the surprise … snow covered mountains while looking over a desert like area!
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Snow and desert aren’t far apart in many places in the U.S. western states. In some desert areas, it gets quite cold at night.
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There’s a lot to NM than just Alburquerque and the White Sands! You definitely explored off the beaten path, and El Santuario de Chimayó looks especialy rustic and stunning. Exploring the smaller towns really show the beauty of the US Southwest!
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Thanks, Rebecca! There’s a beauty and charm to those little towns and less visited areas.
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Such a wonderful collection of beautiful photos, Ruth, especially the ones with snowy mountains. I have been buying books when travelling abroad for over 20 years now. Not only do they help me to gain more valuable information about the places I’ve visited, they often end up as travel souvenirs, too. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Thanks for your comment, Aiva! I too keep those books that speak to me of travels. It’s always a treat to meet another book person!
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🥰🥰🥰
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A dear friend of ours gifted us two pieces of Nambe ware years ago; a nod to his upbringing in northern New Mexico. Unique, beautiful works of art.
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You are fortunate! As a pottery lover, that would be a special gift.
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I love the story of the pot returns, that’s so great to hear. This looks like such an interesting place to visit and learn – the US is full of amazing places
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Glad to know that story touched you, as it did me. This country is big and has such diverse landscapes.
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Glad to hear that the Smithsonian is returning indigenous pottery to the rightful area. The views of Nambe Lake with all those golden trees are gorgeous. I love the yellow flowers on the cacti and the red rock formations too. Hopefully your ankle fully recovers.
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Thanks for your good thoughts. It warmed my heart to see those returned pots and learn their story. This trip was in October so the fall colors were lovely.
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I’ve heard of the Milagro-Beanfield War but never read/saw it. I will have to look it up!
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I hope you do. I think it would appeal to your sense of humor. 🙂
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Like you (and others) I am encouraged to hear about cultural objects going back to where they belong. A lovely piece Ruth with some truly stunning scenes, especially those along Nambé Lake. Love those handsome shades of yellow and green.
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Thank you, Leighton. It’s so good to see major institutions honor older, indigenous cultures by returning their treasures. I seemed to be at just the right time for the fall colors.
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Beautiful photos
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Thank you!
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