The old, beautifully preserved Spanish colonial city of Antigua was at one time the capital of Guatemala until it was decimated in the 1700s by a massive earthquake. Now one of the most popular tourist attractions in the country, Antigua Guatemala, or Old Guatemala, sometimes called La Antigua, features countless charming shops in aged buildings that line the cobbled streets, reminiscent of Madrid, where open-air markets of textiles and other crafts abound.
In Parque Central, the town square, a green and floral park with paths like spokes of a wheel, surrounded by notable structures, vendors milled about or sat on the ground, with their woven wares. At the park’s center, a stone fountain flowed, water sensuously spewing from the nipples of stone women with mermaid gazes, their breasts held high in their hands. The varied colors of the building fronts added warmth to the rows of cement walls.
One of my favorite photos is the textile woman, walking under the arches that line one side of Parque Central, the town square.
The first time I visited the historic city, a trip with teachers before school started in 2003, a Guatemalan man sat in front of an ancient church reading a newspaper. I waited for the people walking the street to thin a bit so I could capture this moment. The second day I was in Guatemala City, there was a political demonstration in the streets with tires burning. It kept me from returning to my hotel, and the school’s director briefed our group, expecting that we may have to be evacuated and sent back to our home countries. Although I hadn’t planned this, the photo and headline on the newspaper’s front page reported the event.
Two young girls with heaps of scarves, purses, and trinkets sat in front of a café, insistent that I stop and look at their goods. I haggled with them for a small woven change purse. After agreeing on a lesser price, I offered to pay their original price if they would let me take their picture. They glanced at each other and giggled, surely convinced they had gotten the better end of the deal.
girls
a flash of small teeth in a fleeting grin
a giggle tinkling like a splash of water over random rocks
a quick sideways glance to my cousin
our eyes meet and whisper to each other
we share a secret now
a magic moment of joy
in an otherwise endless day
the gringa, she doesn’t know we put one over on her
her coins feel like jewels held tightly in the palm of my hand
hard and smooth, something to hold on to
shiny like the sun’s light reflecting on a car window
round as a polished stone from the river
I will show mama and she will give me the warm smile
that I seldom see
and hold my face close to her breasts in a smothering hug
that I will feel around me in the night
after she is asleep and has forgotten
Antigua scenes…
The Easter processions in Antigua are recounted in a previous post, Semana Santa. More Antigua posts: Antigua saints and ruins, Antigua doors and windows.
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Ruth Rosenfeld 
I had the fortune of visiting Antigua in 2019 as a day trip from the Central/South American cruise I was taking (ah, times before COVID…). I didn’t have much time in town, but given that it’s small enough to walk around and cover most things, I managed to see quite a bit! I especially love the arch with views of one of its volcanoes. The colorful side streets were a joy, too. And I also remember enjoying a lunch of pepián (and some of the spiciest salsa verdes I ever had!). Really want to return!
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It may have been a short time, but it sounds like you got the feel of this charming city. The arch is iconic. Thanks for your comment, Rebecca!
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A vibrant series, Ruth. Your portraits, especially of the two smiling girls are captivating. I’ve been to Antiqua but was getting my marriage license in preparation for my wedding on a nearby island. I was too nervous to look around. 😃
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You had more important things going on in your life! Thanks, Jane for your visit and comment.
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Stunning photos, Ruth, especially the image of the man reading the newspaper with the front-page headline about the political demonstration.
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Thank you, Anne Marie! It’s one of my favorites, and I love that it has a story to tell.
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Really beautiful photo’s here Ruth! I’ve got two favourites … that photo of the clock, arch and mountain – what a great capture of stunning images in one photo! And then the picture of the two girls – I love your story about them and your lovely poem 💌.
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The arch is an icon of the city and it perfectly frames the volcano. Thank you! And I so appreciate your comment about the girls and poem. That moment and the photo moved me.
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You make me realize I should spend more time visiting Central America. The photos and history of Antigua are intriguing.
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Maybe you should! 😊 Thanks so much for this lovely comment. Antigua is worth a visit.
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Beautiful post of such a picturesque city and the smiles on those girls was just joy. I really like the photo of the arch and the mountain peak in the background.
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Thanks so much, Michelle! It was a special moment to capture the photo of the girls. They were delighted. The arch is a iconic spot in Antigua and it so perfectly frames the volcano.
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I love traveling vicariously through you. Have never been to Guatemala. It looks lovely.
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Thank you, Virginia. I travel vicariously through your paintings.
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Ruth, your photos are amazing. I love the photo of the mountain under the yellow archway. After my taste of Mexico, I really hope to be able to explore Central America (plus Mexico again!).
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Thanks so much for your kind comment. It’s hard to take a bad photo in Antigua! It really is a picturesque city. I hope you do as well.
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Even your shots of people going about their business are really good. Yes, all good over here. Hope you are well too!
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Thank you! Keeping well and careful. My posts are mostly older travels, but still hopeful things will open up soon!
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The ever-present volcano appears to rule the fate of Antigua. I get Vesuvius vibes.
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There are many areas in Guatemala that are ringed by several volcanoes, many of which are still active.
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This is such a great post, bringing a place to life which is surely the aim of all of us travel bloggers. We are about to leave Costa Rica and our visit here is simply enhanced our love of Central America. Your post makes me want to include Guatemala, Antigua in particular, on our next trip out here. Great post, great words, great photos.
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I’ve enjoyed your Costa Rica posts as well. Guatemala has some lovely spots. I visited Antigua often, less than an hour from where I was living in Guatemala City. Thanks so much for your kind words!
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I loved Antigua when we stayed there some years ago, in a beautiful old colonial hotel (not fancy!) not far from the arch. Your photos have taken me straight back there – the old churches, the cobbled streets, the textile sellers. My favourite photo is the one of the two girls – I love their expressions 🙂 We’ve used that ‘if I buy something can I take your photo’ method many a time! But I don’t remember the fountain which seems very similar to the one in Bologna that I featured in my fountains post a few days ago!
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It’s a charming city, so picturesque, a great place to walk. I loved that photo as well – when I was in a writing group the following year, I wrote poems for some of my photos, this was one. I’ll look for your fountain – just catching up reading blogs!
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Beautiful pictures of everyday life in Antigua. I love the picture of the two girls.
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Thank you, it was a perfect moment to catch those smiles.
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The stately arch with the clock on top, framing the mountain in the distance – my favorite of the photos! Also, I love the warm, cheery sound of the marimba. Not so easy to find a live performance in this country. I hope you took the time to listen to the band.
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Marimba music is popular in Guatemala. They were playing at a restaurant and I had lunch there. The arch is an iconic view in Antigua – I have lots of photos of it. Thanks for your comment!
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I’ve never been to Antigua, but I am aware that there are plenty of reasons to choose Antigua for a vacation, including the reality that the island is a choice culinary destination, a land of beautiful beaches and other amazing scenery, and the fact that vacationing here means you’ll likely also get a chance to spend some time on the sister island, Barbuda. Thanks for sharing and inspiring 🙂 Aiva xx
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This is not the island, Antigua – I haven’t been there! This is Antigua, a city in Guatemala. A very different place, I’m sure!
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That’s exactly what I had in mind, Antigua, a city in Guatemala, my mind must have wondered way off shortly before I pressed enter button 😂😂😂
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🤣
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A fascinating, colourful, characterful place Ruth. What a thrilling if not slightly scary time for you to have been there with the protests. I love all the photos, particularly your people shots. Did you take a spirit figure home?
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Living in Guatemala sometimes did have somewhat scary moments, the political situation and crime. So glad you enjoyed the photos. Those figures were in the shop of a friend – I bought other things there but not those. I have a brightly painted parrot, and bookends with opposed ends of a painted deer, to name a few. 🙂
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This brought back some lovely memories. I so enjoyed the story of the two girls, and your lovely poem. Also the women in the colonnades in one of my fave images too, and also the man with the newspaper. Both great shots.
Alison
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Glad it sparked some good memories. Those are some of my favorite photos out of all my travels. I so appreciate your comment.
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It looks beautiful, and I love all the colours and especially the people bringing the photos to life. I doubt I’ll ever make it to Guatemala, so thank you for taking me there 🙂
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Thanks so much for coming along, Hannah, and taking the time to leave a comment! ☺
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Love the vista of the mountain through the yellow arch – frames it perfectly. The little girls giggling were a treat. I have been to the border of Guatemala from Belize and longed to visit.
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The arch is definitely the iconic image of the town. So glad you enjoyed these photos, Kerry!
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🥰
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Beautiful pictures Ruth and lovely stories. I love the story and poem about the girls. We’ve done similar and their joy that comes across in the pictures is worth it. Maggie
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I’m glad you were touched by the story and poem of the girls. Those little moments make travel so magical.
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So colourful and beautiful!
Ruth, I like your wonderful article and the atmospheric photos from a country that is so far from my home Germany. The photo with the laughing pretty girls is fantastic!
Greetings from the beautiful Rhine-Highlands / Germany…
Rosie
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Thank you, Rosie! That photo is one of my favorites as well. I appreciate your visit and comment.
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🌸🌸
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I loved Antigua and the easter celebrations there. I was also surprised by how much english is spoken there. Thanks for bringing back the memories. Love that you gave them the original price eventhough they expected less
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My pleasure. Antigua is one of the few touristy places, so most people speak English. In the villages, as you may know, Spanish is their second language, after indigenous languages, so English is rare.
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